How to Make a Macrame Table Runner
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To make a macrame table runner, mount long cords on a temporary dowel, knot a pattern of square knots and open spaces down the full length, then remove the dowel and finish both ends with fringe. A typical runner is 12 to 16 in wide and about 12 in longer than the table, so it drops 6 in over each end. It is a bigger project than a wall hanging because of the length: plan on a weekend and several hundred feet of cord, and knot a small sample first to check width and cord use.
Choose the size
Runners are usually about one third of the table width: 12 to 14 in for a standard dining table of 36 to 40 in, and 14 to 16 in for wider tables. For length, the common choice is the table length plus 12 in, which gives a 6 in drop at each end. A shorter runner that stops 6 to 12 in inside each end of the table also works and uses much less cord. Fringe counts toward the drop, so a 4 in fringe on a 6 in drop leaves 2 in of knotting hanging over the edge.
As an example, a 72 in table takes a runner about 84 in long including fringe, or about 76 in of knotting plus 4 in of fringe at each end. If that sounds like a lot, a 36 in centerpiece runner is a good first piece and uses the same method.
Cord and how much to cut
Use 4 or 5mm cotton cord. Single strand cord gives a soft, flat runner with straight fringe; 3 ply gives crisper knots and wavy fringe. Thicker cord fills the width with fewer cords and fewer knots, which matters on a long piece. Avoid polypropylene for a dining table: it is slippery, and dishes slide on it.
Width decides the number of cords. With 4mm cord, a row of square knots is roughly 1 in wide for every two folded cords, so a 14 in runner needs about 28 cords. Knot a 4 in wide sample from four cords to check your own spacing before cutting the rest. Length depends on how dense the pattern is: allow about 4 times the knotted length per strand, which means about 8 times per folded cord, plus the fringe at both ends. For 76 in of knotting and 4 in of fringe each end that is about 52 ft per folded cord, or roughly 1450 ft in total, so a dense runner is a project for bulk spools. An open pattern with long bare sections uses noticeably less.
Set up: temporary dowel and managing long cords
Fold each cord in half and mount it on a dowel slightly wider than the runner with a lark's head knot. The folded loops will be one end of the runner, so leave a little slack in each lark's head; you will slide the dowel out at the end. An alternative is to cut the cords at the full length without folding and tie them to the dowel with a slip knot, which gives fringe at both ends straight away.
Work vertically if you can: hang the dowel from a clothes rail or a pair of hooks at chest height, or lay the dowel across the back of a chair. Gather each long cord into a butterfly bundle with a rubber band so it releases cord as you need it rather than tangling with its neighbors. Every 12 to 18 in, roll the finished part up and clip it so you can keep knotting at a comfortable height.
A simple pattern that looks finished
Start with a band of three rows of alternating square knots, packed tight, across the full width. Then leave 2 to 3 in of bare cord and tie a row of square knots across again. Repeat that rhythm down the length: dense bands of alternating square knots separated by short open sections. The bands give the runner body, the open sections save cord and time, and the whole thing reads as a deliberate pattern.
To add interest in the middle, tie a diamond of double half hitches at the center of the runner, or a row of spiral sinnets made with half knots. Keep any feature centered and mirrored on both halves of the length, because the runner is seen from both ends of the table. Measure rows from the dowel with a tape measure rather than by eye; over 6 ft, small differences add up and the edges wander.
Finishing both ends and caring for it
When the knotting reaches the planned length, finish with a tight row of square knots or a row of double half hitches across the width, which gives a straight edge to sit the fringe below. Trim the fringe to 3 to 5 in, unravel and comb it if you used single strand or 3 ply cotton. Slide the dowel out of the starting loops; the loops can be left as they are, cut and combed into a second fringe, or tied off with a row of half hitches for a neat edge.
Lay the runner flat on the table for a day so it relaxes. Cotton absorbs spills, so wipe drips straight away, and use placemats under hot dishes. To wash it, soak by hand in cool water with mild detergent, press the water out with a towel without wringing, and dry it flat, reshaping the edges and combing the fringe while it is damp.
Frequently asked questions
How wide should a macrame table runner be? About one third of the table width, which is 12 to 14 in for most dining tables. Length is usually the table length plus 12 in for a 6 in drop at each end.
How much cord do I need for a macrame table runner? For a dense 14 in by 84 in runner in 4mm cord, plan on roughly 1400 to 1500 ft. An open pattern with bare sections and short drops can cut that by a third or more.
What size cord is best for a table runner? 4 or 5mm cotton. It fills the width with fewer cords and lies flat. Thinner cord works but needs many more cords and knots.
Can I make a runner without a dowel? Yes. Tie the cords to a rail or a long piece of tape with slip knots and untie them at the end, which also leaves fringe at both ends.
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